I got up early, had breakfast and headed back up to John O'Groats. I might never come here again (although, thinking about it, I'm sure I could do it in 7 days if I took the more direct route that most end to enders take (eg by missing out Lizard Point and heading up the east coast of Scotland instead of to Tongue ... )) so I wanted an official 'photo with the sign and the whole works.
Got to JoG; had the photo taken, had a coffee, did a little shopping (couldn't have done this without my wife and kid's support) and then headed back to Thurso to catch the train.
The wind was still blowing strongly from the east so it took me 35 minutes to do the 7 miles from Mey to JoG, but only 20 minutes to get back!
Took the train from Thurso to Inverness where I'm staying over. Three more end to enders on the train - 1 who'd camped and taken 14 days, 2 others who B&B'd and were heading home to Glasgow.
Total miles so far: 1,064.59.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Tongue to John O'Groats, then back to Mey
OMG! More than 70 miles on a hilly, single track road into 20mph head winds. I managed an average speed of 12.8 mph and felt I'd done really well.
The scenery along the north coast of Scotland is amazing. It's very hilly on the western side, but it gradually eases as you head east. The flowers that were missing yesterday made an appearance today - miles and miles of yellow flowering gauze, pink heather, yellow iris, enormous ox-eye daisies - the works. Then, as you got further east, field after field of sheep (+ lambs), horses (+ fowls) and cows (+ calves)
The skies were clear and there were fantastic views across the Atlantic to the Islands (Rabbit Island, Storma and (eventually) Orkney).
A pleasant mix-up with the Heart Rate Monitor meant that for the first time in my life I'd ridden for nearly two hours, honestly believing that I'd only just managed an hour when I stopped for my first break.
I was thoroughly exhausted by the time I got to John O'Groats, and (briefly) fed up. It's such a tiny place. I got there 'late' (just after 6) so everything was shut and deserted. The sign had been taken down; there was no food and no coffee and no-one to talk tocelebrate with. Add to that the fact that I was so tired that I couldn't even begin to contemplate getting back on the bike to ride the 7 miles back to the B&B in Mey and you can see where I'm coming from.
But hang around for a little while and other cyclists start to come through, the pain eases and you begin to cheer up: a heavily bearded man from Dundee arrives - he'd ridden from Land's End to York, then up the east coast of England and Scotland - a longer route than mine but done in the same time; two club racing cyclists who'd ridden in 6 days with a club mate offering domestique services (carrying the luggage, organising food/drink etc) from the 'team car') and a guy who was riding on his own, with his wife working domestique who claimed to have completed the ride in 4 days.
We swapped stories and took photo's for each other, then I headed for the nearest pub to get something to eat. The others waited for a bunch ride to finish - another group of cyclists raising money for Aids in Africa (Race against time), who were said to be completing the ride in a week.
At the pub, I met a man who'd ridden a route similar to mine in the same time, but all the fingers on his right hand were missing. There was a also a lady who'd ridden a similar route, taken slightly longer but who'd camped/carried a huge amount of camping equipment the whole way.
Finally, there was an elderly gentlemen who'd spent 61 days walking from Land's End. Humbling.
(No tractors this year, and no tractor groupies - perhaps I was just too late?)
I finished my meal with my first pudding in a fortnight (Clootie Dumpling) and then headed back to Mey (7 miles back towards Thurso) to the B&B.
Total miles so far: 1,037.87
Total calories: 45, 953
Number of end to enders: too many to count (or too tired and too lazy)
Watched another wonderful sunset at 11pm.
The scenery along the north coast of Scotland is amazing. It's very hilly on the western side, but it gradually eases as you head east. The flowers that were missing yesterday made an appearance today - miles and miles of yellow flowering gauze, pink heather, yellow iris, enormous ox-eye daisies - the works. Then, as you got further east, field after field of sheep (+ lambs), horses (+ fowls) and cows (+ calves)
The skies were clear and there were fantastic views across the Atlantic to the Islands (Rabbit Island, Storma and (eventually) Orkney).
A pleasant mix-up with the Heart Rate Monitor meant that for the first time in my life I'd ridden for nearly two hours, honestly believing that I'd only just managed an hour when I stopped for my first break.
I was thoroughly exhausted by the time I got to John O'Groats, and (briefly) fed up. It's such a tiny place. I got there 'late' (just after 6) so everything was shut and deserted. The sign had been taken down; there was no food and no coffee and no-one to talk tocelebrate with. Add to that the fact that I was so tired that I couldn't even begin to contemplate getting back on the bike to ride the 7 miles back to the B&B in Mey and you can see where I'm coming from.
But hang around for a little while and other cyclists start to come through, the pain eases and you begin to cheer up: a heavily bearded man from Dundee arrives - he'd ridden from Land's End to York, then up the east coast of England and Scotland - a longer route than mine but done in the same time; two club racing cyclists who'd ridden in 6 days with a club mate offering domestique services (carrying the luggage, organising food/drink etc) from the 'team car') and a guy who was riding on his own, with his wife working domestique who claimed to have completed the ride in 4 days.
We swapped stories and took photo's for each other, then I headed for the nearest pub to get something to eat. The others waited for a bunch ride to finish - another group of cyclists raising money for Aids in Africa (Race against time), who were said to be completing the ride in a week.
At the pub, I met a man who'd ridden a route similar to mine in the same time, but all the fingers on his right hand were missing. There was a also a lady who'd ridden a similar route, taken slightly longer but who'd camped/carried a huge amount of camping equipment the whole way.
Finally, there was an elderly gentlemen who'd spent 61 days walking from Land's End. Humbling.
(No tractors this year, and no tractor groupies - perhaps I was just too late?)
I finished my meal with my first pudding in a fortnight (Clootie Dumpling) and then headed back to Mey (7 miles back towards Thurso) to the B&B.
Total miles so far: 1,037.87
Total calories: 45, 953
Number of end to enders: too many to count (or too tired and too lazy)
Watched another wonderful sunset at 11pm.
Inverness to Tongue
A day of "three halves".
I spent the morning pottering around Inverness. A small, attractive city. I visited the Cathedral (there was a service on, so I didn't go in; but peering through the glass doors, I could see a small Cathedral made of red stone in a simple design with twin, square flat topped towers standing either side of a large ornate entrance. The Cathedral stands close to the river on the opposite side to the Castle). I pottered along Ness Walk and Ness Bank enjoying the sun and admiring the fast flowing, shallow river, then headed into town to post home as much of my luggage as I could reasonably manage (took a gamble and posted the waterproofs, spare gloves and cycling kit etc - let's hope it doesn't rain!).
After an early lunch, I headed for the road. The route took me through Alnes, Bonar Bridge, Craske Inn, Altnarra and on to Tongue.
When I did this ride last year I marvelled at the beauty of it all. There were mountains, endless runs of flowering gauze and heather, lochs, peat bog pools, and it was so quiet that at times all you could hear were the birds and the odd fish catching insects near the water's surface. The forests butting up against the road that were so thickly planted you couldn't see more than a few feet into them before the sunlight was completely lost.
This year, the same single track road (the A836) headed north, but the flowers had all gone over, a good deal of the forest had been grubbed-up leaving dead tree stumps and piles of logs and the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any birds.
What had previously been a glorious ride quickly turned into an instrument of torture as a I ground my way up the long, long hills fighting against the wind towards Tongue, arms, knees and elbows aching. I even had a new saddle sore that was coming on nicely. To be frank, it hurt; it was all I could do to get the ride over with and I was very glad when it was done.
But I have to say that it was worth it - Tongue was breathtaking. The hotel sits on a cliff side overlooking the Kyle of Tongue. Even at 9.30 when I finished my meal the sun was still high in the sky and there was time for a walk across the fields and down to the beach. The beach itself was rocky, and covered in shells, sea grass, rock pools and streams. The sunset was stunning and it brilliantly silhouetted the castle ruins sitting high up on the cliffs on the far side of the water.
It didn't get dark until after 11, and I'm sure it was light again by 3 (not sleeping too well - the light wakes me up early every morning).
Despite the many positive things I've said about the earlier B&B's, this hotel was by far the best of the trip. I would dearly love to stay here again (if only it wasn't so far).
Total miles so far: 964.82
Total calories so far: 42, 195
I spent the morning pottering around Inverness. A small, attractive city. I visited the Cathedral (there was a service on, so I didn't go in; but peering through the glass doors, I could see a small Cathedral made of red stone in a simple design with twin, square flat topped towers standing either side of a large ornate entrance. The Cathedral stands close to the river on the opposite side to the Castle). I pottered along Ness Walk and Ness Bank enjoying the sun and admiring the fast flowing, shallow river, then headed into town to post home as much of my luggage as I could reasonably manage (took a gamble and posted the waterproofs, spare gloves and cycling kit etc - let's hope it doesn't rain!).
After an early lunch, I headed for the road. The route took me through Alnes, Bonar Bridge, Craske Inn, Altnarra and on to Tongue.
When I did this ride last year I marvelled at the beauty of it all. There were mountains, endless runs of flowering gauze and heather, lochs, peat bog pools, and it was so quiet that at times all you could hear were the birds and the odd fish catching insects near the water's surface. The forests butting up against the road that were so thickly planted you couldn't see more than a few feet into them before the sunlight was completely lost.
This year, the same single track road (the A836) headed north, but the flowers had all gone over, a good deal of the forest had been grubbed-up leaving dead tree stumps and piles of logs and the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any birds.
What had previously been a glorious ride quickly turned into an instrument of torture as a I ground my way up the long, long hills fighting against the wind towards Tongue, arms, knees and elbows aching. I even had a new saddle sore that was coming on nicely. To be frank, it hurt; it was all I could do to get the ride over with and I was very glad when it was done.
But I have to say that it was worth it - Tongue was breathtaking. The hotel sits on a cliff side overlooking the Kyle of Tongue. Even at 9.30 when I finished my meal the sun was still high in the sky and there was time for a walk across the fields and down to the beach. The beach itself was rocky, and covered in shells, sea grass, rock pools and streams. The sunset was stunning and it brilliantly silhouetted the castle ruins sitting high up on the cliffs on the far side of the water.
It didn't get dark until after 11, and I'm sure it was light again by 3 (not sleeping too well - the light wakes me up early every morning).
Despite the many positive things I've said about the earlier B&B's, this hotel was by far the best of the trip. I would dearly love to stay here again (if only it wasn't so far).
Total miles so far: 964.82
Total calories so far: 42, 195
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Inchree to Inverness
On the A82 again. Nevermind.
Another glorious day - full sunshine and stunning views. The road out of Fort William takes you passed Ben Nevis, snow caps and all.
I stopped for lunch at the most amazing hotel: Glengarry Castle - I have to recommend this one. The service was great, the food excellent and the views stunning (from the library, where I ate, I had a clear view of the terraced garden, Loch Oich and the steep mountains opposite. The antique furniture was wonderful and the bathroom was brown marble and art deco. It has its own ruined castle in the grounds - what more could you want?
I spent the day cycling up the lochs Linnhe, Lochy, Oich and Ness. No monsters today (nor last year - must be frightened of cyclists). Passed through Rubha Ban (it's really there) and into Inverness. Stayed in a small hotel on Ness Bank with wonderful views of the river.
Fantastic.
And beginning to get demob happy - only 150 and 2 days to go!
Another glorious day - full sunshine and stunning views. The road out of Fort William takes you passed Ben Nevis, snow caps and all.
I stopped for lunch at the most amazing hotel: Glengarry Castle - I have to recommend this one. The service was great, the food excellent and the views stunning (from the library, where I ate, I had a clear view of the terraced garden, Loch Oich and the steep mountains opposite. The antique furniture was wonderful and the bathroom was brown marble and art deco. It has its own ruined castle in the grounds - what more could you want?
I spent the day cycling up the lochs Linnhe, Lochy, Oich and Ness. No monsters today (nor last year - must be frightened of cyclists). Passed through Rubha Ban (it's really there) and into Inverness. Stayed in a small hotel on Ness Bank with wonderful views of the river.
Fantastic.
And beginning to get demob happy - only 150 and 2 days to go!
An evening in Inchree
Inchree is a tony hamlet that sits on Loch Linnhe.
To get to it, I cycled through Glen Coe passed Loch Leven.
The only pub that offers food is a 'short walk away'. I decided to walk (because the guy at the B&B said it was less than a mile) and quickly regretted it - very hot, and the short walk turned into at least 2 miles. I also discovered that the pub was full when I got there, so they couldn't take any more food orders.
But all worked out well - the manager of the pub offered to drive me to the next village pub (another 2 miles away) and refused to take any cash in payment (even though I would have paid a taxi double rather than walk another step).
In the end, I had my evening meal in a Hotel near Loch Leven, where I enjoyed fish and chips and watched the sun settle over two lochs. (I had asked for a baked potato but the waitress insisted that people only eat baked potatoes at lunch time so it was impossible to cook one in the evening - even in a microwave).
Taxi back to the B&B.
People couldn't have been more friendly and more helpful.
To get to it, I cycled through Glen Coe passed Loch Leven.
The only pub that offers food is a 'short walk away'. I decided to walk (because the guy at the B&B said it was less than a mile) and quickly regretted it - very hot, and the short walk turned into at least 2 miles. I also discovered that the pub was full when I got there, so they couldn't take any more food orders.
But all worked out well - the manager of the pub offered to drive me to the next village pub (another 2 miles away) and refused to take any cash in payment (even though I would have paid a taxi double rather than walk another step).
In the end, I had my evening meal in a Hotel near Loch Leven, where I enjoyed fish and chips and watched the sun settle over two lochs. (I had asked for a baked potato but the waitress insisted that people only eat baked potatoes at lunch time so it was impossible to cook one in the evening - even in a microwave).
Taxi back to the B&B.
People couldn't have been more friendly and more helpful.
Paisley to Inchree
What a wonderful day. Clear blue skies, a gentle breeze and the A82 to bounce my way along for 90 miles (the A82 has to be the worst road I've ever been on - badly surfaced, badly potholed, badly maintained etc - but never mind that for now).
I left Paisley late morning, and headed over the Erskine Bridge to Balloch on the south shores of Loch Lomond. Had some lunch and bought some anti-midge spray. I've always been pretty cynical about these sprays before, but I got so badly bitten last time that I had to give it a go...and it worked a treat. No bites.
Today's route took me up the west side of Loch Lomond, which was bathed in sunshine and shimmering in the heat. A deer came out onto the side of the road, ran along side me for a few seconds and then headed back into the bushes. A heron flew close by.
I had a light lunch in Crianlarich and then headed up to Rannoch Moor and through Glen Coe. Whenever I've been here in the past, it's been so wet that it was impossible to enjoy the views, but today it was glorious. The (Grampian) mountains were stunning and the moor was very peaceful. The bird and insect life was stunning.
Took pictures of the white crofters cottages nestling at the base of the mountains, sat at the moor's edge and enjoyed the view. Very relaxing.
The ride was very hilly, but the climbs were long and steady so although it was a relatively slow day, it was also relatively easy.
The road surface was giving me truly sore hands and shoulders, so I tried wearing two pairs of gloves, letting my saddle down slightly and lowering the pressure in my tyres. Seemed to help a bit.
Miles so far: 801.53
Calories so far: 35,860
Sense of satisfaction: huge.
I left Paisley late morning, and headed over the Erskine Bridge to Balloch on the south shores of Loch Lomond. Had some lunch and bought some anti-midge spray. I've always been pretty cynical about these sprays before, but I got so badly bitten last time that I had to give it a go...and it worked a treat. No bites.
Today's route took me up the west side of Loch Lomond, which was bathed in sunshine and shimmering in the heat. A deer came out onto the side of the road, ran along side me for a few seconds and then headed back into the bushes. A heron flew close by.
I had a light lunch in Crianlarich and then headed up to Rannoch Moor and through Glen Coe. Whenever I've been here in the past, it's been so wet that it was impossible to enjoy the views, but today it was glorious. The (Grampian) mountains were stunning and the moor was very peaceful. The bird and insect life was stunning.
Took pictures of the white crofters cottages nestling at the base of the mountains, sat at the moor's edge and enjoyed the view. Very relaxing.
The ride was very hilly, but the climbs were long and steady so although it was a relatively slow day, it was also relatively easy.
The road surface was giving me truly sore hands and shoulders, so I tried wearing two pairs of gloves, letting my saddle down slightly and lowering the pressure in my tyres. Seemed to help a bit.
Miles so far: 801.53
Calories so far: 35,860
Sense of satisfaction: huge.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Some thank yous
I've been reading, and am very grateful for, the very encouraging comments friends have been posting on the blog. Please keep them coming. I'm sorry that I haven't worked out how to reply directly.
I'm also very grateful for all the sponsorship/donations made. I've just checked the sponsorship page and between us we've raised well over £1,200 - more than last year and well past my target.
Thank you.
I'm also very grateful for all the sponsorship/donations made. I've just checked the sponsorship page and between us we've raised well over £1,200 - more than last year and well past my target.
Thank you.
Sanquhar to Paisley
I just couldn't get going this morning...stiff, sore, and a bad night's sleep (there was an owl calling from the woods near my window - normally, I'd think that was great, but last night...and when I didn't have a gun...).
I managed to get downstairs before breakfast finished (9am!). I even managed to set off as early as 11am. (There's no rush. It's supposed to be fun.)
I took the A76 as far as Cross Hands, and then took a diversion through Moscow (it's really there, check it out) to by-pass Kilmarnock and pick up the A77 to head straight into Glasgow. On the first part of the ride the scenery was stunning, but the towns were very run down and some of the roads were really rough. (I'm starting to fell a bit tender, and when you're tired you really feel every bump.) But the second part of the journey (from near Waterside to Glasgow) was perfect - a broad, recently surfaced off-road cycle path runs for 15 miles or more alongside the A77, almost without interruption and well in towards the city centre. (Perhaps this is what Boris has in mind for his London Cycle Super-highways?) So although the first part of the day was slow and steady, the second was much faster and more comfortable.
The cycle path was being well used - I saw lots of cyclists going the other way (an omen?). But none of them wanted to wave (there's usually pretty good camaraderie between cyclists on the road; we're all in it together and we have a common interest; but these guys seemed really unfriendly).
Still, nice to arrive at my next stop in the middle of the afternoon and to be able to spend the evening with friends.
Saw the weather forecast just before bed - same forecast that we've had since I started: the sunny dry weather is still just a couple of days away. I was going to post the waterproofs back home tomorrow, but I might just hang on to them a little bit longer. (And I must remember to buy some insect repellent tomorrow...Am I getting onto the repeats?...the bugs in the Trossachs can be really nasty)
Total miles so far 705.41
Total calories so far: 31,993 (if only that was a calorific deficit - I'd be at least a stone lighter by now).
I managed to get downstairs before breakfast finished (9am!). I even managed to set off as early as 11am. (There's no rush. It's supposed to be fun.)
I took the A76 as far as Cross Hands, and then took a diversion through Moscow (it's really there, check it out) to by-pass Kilmarnock and pick up the A77 to head straight into Glasgow. On the first part of the ride the scenery was stunning, but the towns were very run down and some of the roads were really rough. (I'm starting to fell a bit tender, and when you're tired you really feel every bump.) But the second part of the journey (from near Waterside to Glasgow) was perfect - a broad, recently surfaced off-road cycle path runs for 15 miles or more alongside the A77, almost without interruption and well in towards the city centre. (Perhaps this is what Boris has in mind for his London Cycle Super-highways?) So although the first part of the day was slow and steady, the second was much faster and more comfortable.
The cycle path was being well used - I saw lots of cyclists going the other way (an omen?). But none of them wanted to wave (there's usually pretty good camaraderie between cyclists on the road; we're all in it together and we have a common interest; but these guys seemed really unfriendly).
Still, nice to arrive at my next stop in the middle of the afternoon and to be able to spend the evening with friends.
Saw the weather forecast just before bed - same forecast that we've had since I started: the sunny dry weather is still just a couple of days away. I was going to post the waterproofs back home tomorrow, but I might just hang on to them a little bit longer. (And I must remember to buy some insect repellent tomorrow...Am I getting onto the repeats?...the bugs in the Trossachs can be really nasty)
Total miles so far 705.41
Total calories so far: 31,993 (if only that was a calorific deficit - I'd be at least a stone lighter by now).
Monday, June 22, 2009
Cross Houses to Ecclestone
I had a steady ride into Shrewsbury and spent a couple of hours mouching around the town - it's a small, pretty medieval town, with a river and the usual collection of large town shops. Fed my developing SubWay habit and found a bike shop (needed to buy chain lube - the lube I brought with me seems to have bounced onto the road near Tiverton with my garmin).
After lunch< i had a steady ride up through Warrington and Wigan. Warrington gets the biggest pot hole so far award by far. I'm not exaggerating if I say this hole was at least 6 feet long and 3 feet wide. the depth varied because it was several smaller holes joined together, but in places it was at least 5 inches deep. It was also unavoidable. Bounced my tender way through that...
I now have an official cyclist's tan - very brown forearms and lower upper arms, especialy on the outside edge. But completely white hands (gloved) except for the 10p sized brown circle on the back of my hands where my glove straps meet. then brown legs - especially brown on the top of the knees, but white underneath. And very white feet and upper legs. Do i now qualify as a cyclist?
I stopped for a coffee in Warrington - weird sign in the toilet: 'By pulling the cord to activate the disabled alarm, staff will immediately enter the toilet'. Still not really sure what that meant.
Arrived in Eccleston in a shower just after 6.
Total miles so far 487.48
Total calories 23, 141
favourtie pub name: The Elephant's Nest
After lunch< i had a steady ride up through Warrington and Wigan. Warrington gets the biggest pot hole so far award by far. I'm not exaggerating if I say this hole was at least 6 feet long and 3 feet wide. the depth varied because it was several smaller holes joined together, but in places it was at least 5 inches deep. It was also unavoidable. Bounced my tender way through that...
I now have an official cyclist's tan - very brown forearms and lower upper arms, especialy on the outside edge. But completely white hands (gloved) except for the 10p sized brown circle on the back of my hands where my glove straps meet. then brown legs - especially brown on the top of the knees, but white underneath. And very white feet and upper legs. Do i now qualify as a cyclist?
I stopped for a coffee in Warrington - weird sign in the toilet: 'By pulling the cord to activate the disabled alarm, staff will immediately enter the toilet'. Still not really sure what that meant.
Arrived in Eccleston in a shower just after 6.
Total miles so far 487.48
Total calories 23, 141
favourtie pub name: The Elephant's Nest
Ecclestone to Penrith
Funny day. Waterproofs on, waterproofs off. Stop for the toilet. Waterproofs on, waterproofs off. Stop for lunch. Repeat endlessly. (Except at one garage, where they refused to let me use their toilet, insisting that the public toilets were only 2 miles away - so I should use them 'It's only a couple of minutes down the road'.
I realised that I'd lost a screw (you probably already knew that), but this screw was in my handlebar bag, and the bag was starting to come loose. Fortunately, a friend had suggested carrying some cable ties and I still had them (from last year - cheers Ed!), so I was able to use one of those to make a permanent temporary repair. Sorted.
I realised as I left Kendal that I'd visisted the same coffee shop and bought my daughter the same card (colie lying in a bluebell field) that I bought her last year.
Although it was very damp on teh way up to kendal, it was bright and warm as I went over Scap Fell; so I felt very lucky and pressed on. On the longest, highest climb of the day I crawled past another cyclist. We called out to each other: he was also doing the End to End and started the day before me.
Penrith was unusually quite this evening. Last year it was teaming with cyclists who'd stopped over on the first leg of thier Coast to Coast ride. This evening, there seemed only to be 3 (staying in the same B&B as me). Felt a bit embarrassed over breakfast when the host interuppted their breakfast chatter to tell them what I was doing - quite rightly, they'd been discussing how well they were doing getting from Whitehaven to Penrith in a day by cycling across the Lake District (no mean feat especially as they were entirely new to this). Afterwards, they could do nothing but put themselves down. I'm blushing, thinking about it.
Total miles so far: 570.85Total calories: 26, 795End to Enders spotted: +1
I realised that I'd lost a screw (you probably already knew that), but this screw was in my handlebar bag, and the bag was starting to come loose. Fortunately, a friend had suggested carrying some cable ties and I still had them (from last year - cheers Ed!), so I was able to use one of those to make a permanent temporary repair. Sorted.
I realised as I left Kendal that I'd visisted the same coffee shop and bought my daughter the same card (colie lying in a bluebell field) that I bought her last year.
Although it was very damp on teh way up to kendal, it was bright and warm as I went over Scap Fell; so I felt very lucky and pressed on. On the longest, highest climb of the day I crawled past another cyclist. We called out to each other: he was also doing the End to End and started the day before me.
Penrith was unusually quite this evening. Last year it was teaming with cyclists who'd stopped over on the first leg of thier Coast to Coast ride. This evening, there seemed only to be 3 (staying in the same B&B as me). Felt a bit embarrassed over breakfast when the host interuppted their breakfast chatter to tell them what I was doing - quite rightly, they'd been discussing how well they were doing getting from Whitehaven to Penrith in a day by cycling across the Lake District (no mean feat especially as they were entirely new to this). Afterwards, they could do nothing but put themselves down. I'm blushing, thinking about it.
Total miles so far: 570.85Total calories: 26, 795End to Enders spotted: +1
Penrith Sanquhar
Getting tired now.
A very pretty ride up the A6 to Carlisle. I've only ever been past Carlisle before, so I stopped for a couple of hours to have a look around.
A large, clean tpwn centre with wide vistas. It's quite attractive and seemed to be flourishing.
The catherdral is in the city centre, with shops running quite close to one edge of teh cathedral precinct. It's an unusual Cathedral. it's made from a very deep pinky/reddish stone, set in beutiful grounds with a small collection of properties nearby that house the church kitchens and some accommodation. The cathedral itself is quite small, but very well maintained with a large collection of religious effigies including (unusually) some in black marble. The ceiling is broken up into a squares that are painted in a deep blue and then embellished in gold stars.
I managed to find the B roads that take you from Gretna to Dumfries along the Galloway Heritage Coast, with panoramic views over teh Solway Firth.
Last year, Dumfries seemed very cold (unfriendly) and unattractive, so I pressed on to Thornhill and Sanquhar over what seemed to be a badly maintained road that must have climbed gradually for something like 20 miles. By the time I arrived I was extremely tired and every little bump in the road felt sore.
Still - only 5 days left and tomorrow is a short one. We're getting there.
Total miles so far: 650.92Total calories: 30,031 (I ought to be stick thin by now - if only)
A very pretty ride up the A6 to Carlisle. I've only ever been past Carlisle before, so I stopped for a couple of hours to have a look around.
A large, clean tpwn centre with wide vistas. It's quite attractive and seemed to be flourishing.
The catherdral is in the city centre, with shops running quite close to one edge of teh cathedral precinct. It's an unusual Cathedral. it's made from a very deep pinky/reddish stone, set in beutiful grounds with a small collection of properties nearby that house the church kitchens and some accommodation. The cathedral itself is quite small, but very well maintained with a large collection of religious effigies including (unusually) some in black marble. The ceiling is broken up into a squares that are painted in a deep blue and then embellished in gold stars.
I managed to find the B roads that take you from Gretna to Dumfries along the Galloway Heritage Coast, with panoramic views over teh Solway Firth.
Last year, Dumfries seemed very cold (unfriendly) and unattractive, so I pressed on to Thornhill and Sanquhar over what seemed to be a badly maintained road that must have climbed gradually for something like 20 miles. By the time I arrived I was extremely tired and every little bump in the road felt sore.
Still - only 5 days left and tomorrow is a short one. We're getting there.
Total miles so far: 650.92Total calories: 30,031 (I ought to be stick thin by now - if only)
Friday, June 19, 2009
T+5 Coleford to Cross Houses (nr Shrewsbury)
Another flat stage. Windy, but dry.
Before I left the hotel, I had a quick chat with the chef - a cyclist. He's been thinking about doing the End to End but hasn't tackled it yet.
The route passed through Hereford, passed close to Leominster and Ludlow and into Craven Arms, before heading up the B4378 to Much Wenlock and north west to Cross Houses.
On the way it passes through some stunning scenery. Wigmore and Much Wenlock are especially pretty, and the B4378 is rolling but somehow it's also very fast.
I made really good time today and that meant that I was at Upper Brompton Farm House (my favourite) by 5.30 in the evening. Quick shower, evening meal at the pub in the village and an early night (lapsing into a coma watching TV (May contain nuts)).
Unfortunately, the B&B takes dogs, but only if they're prepared to stay in the barn ('it's clean'). Otherwise I would have brought the family here in the summer. But even a clean barn's no good for dogs with bandies.
Total miles so far: 402.98
Total calories so far: 19956
Total sponsorship raised on route: + an extra £10
Before I left the hotel, I had a quick chat with the chef - a cyclist. He's been thinking about doing the End to End but hasn't tackled it yet.
The route passed through Hereford, passed close to Leominster and Ludlow and into Craven Arms, before heading up the B4378 to Much Wenlock and north west to Cross Houses.
On the way it passes through some stunning scenery. Wigmore and Much Wenlock are especially pretty, and the B4378 is rolling but somehow it's also very fast.
I made really good time today and that meant that I was at Upper Brompton Farm House (my favourite) by 5.30 in the evening. Quick shower, evening meal at the pub in the village and an early night (lapsing into a coma watching TV (May contain nuts)).
Unfortunately, the B&B takes dogs, but only if they're prepared to stay in the barn ('it's clean'). Otherwise I would have brought the family here in the summer. But even a clean barn's no good for dogs with bandies.
Total miles so far: 402.98
Total calories so far: 19956
Total sponsorship raised on route: + an extra £10
T+4 Whitnage to Coleford
This was something of a perfect day.
I knew that rain was expected, so I set off early hoping to get at least as far as Bridgewater before the rain set in. In fact, the rain was much later than forecast and I had lunched and nearly reached Bristol before it started. Waterproofs on and into Bristol to wait for the rain to pass.
I haven't really been to Bristol before, so I took the opportunity to visit the Cathedral, the library (to blog) and a coffee shop (Woodes - I'd thoroughly recommend it. This is one of the best bits of cycle-touring - coffee shop, paper, watching people rush backwards and forwards through a slightly fogged window as the rain intensifies and eventually passes.)).
The cathedral is lovely - some very good Elizabethan effigies (including some of women (very unusual for the time)). I got talking to the lady in the Cathedral shop - turns out she did the End to End 10 years ago when she was 66. She asks which charity I'm raising money for and, when I tell her, she offers me some sponsorship. Her daughter has suffered from depression for many years and has attempted suicide 3 times. A very touching story, very lovingly told. Add this to the number of people who stopped to offer help when I was tackling my puncture(s) the other day and you really begin to see how kind and generous people are.
When I passed through Bristol last year, I ended up going through Clifton, which meant a really really steep climb up a long long hill, and then stunning views as you pass over the Clifton suspension bridge. This time, I left Bristol on the A4 heading through Avonmouth, which took me under the suspension bridge and along the river to the Severn Estuary.
Unfortunately the rain had set in again by the time I reached the M48 cycle path over the River Severn, so there was no view. But Winnie the Pooh would have been proud - it was a very blustery day - I got my head down and battled through the wind across the Bridge.
Eventually crawled to the other side, found some shelter, put my waterproofs on and that was enough to stop the rain for the day.
Cycle up the Wye valley, which is gorgeous, passed a ruined Abbey and up into to Coleford.
A fairly flat stage (with a couple of nasty hills, especially going up into Coleford). Passed from Devon into Somerset, Avon, Monmouthsire and into Gloucestershire.
Total miles now: 321.61
Total calories now: 12, 033
Number of End to Enders: +1
Sponsorship raised on route: +£5
I knew that rain was expected, so I set off early hoping to get at least as far as Bridgewater before the rain set in. In fact, the rain was much later than forecast and I had lunched and nearly reached Bristol before it started. Waterproofs on and into Bristol to wait for the rain to pass.
I haven't really been to Bristol before, so I took the opportunity to visit the Cathedral, the library (to blog) and a coffee shop (Woodes - I'd thoroughly recommend it. This is one of the best bits of cycle-touring - coffee shop, paper, watching people rush backwards and forwards through a slightly fogged window as the rain intensifies and eventually passes.)).
The cathedral is lovely - some very good Elizabethan effigies (including some of women (very unusual for the time)). I got talking to the lady in the Cathedral shop - turns out she did the End to End 10 years ago when she was 66. She asks which charity I'm raising money for and, when I tell her, she offers me some sponsorship. Her daughter has suffered from depression for many years and has attempted suicide 3 times. A very touching story, very lovingly told. Add this to the number of people who stopped to offer help when I was tackling my puncture(s) the other day and you really begin to see how kind and generous people are.
When I passed through Bristol last year, I ended up going through Clifton, which meant a really really steep climb up a long long hill, and then stunning views as you pass over the Clifton suspension bridge. This time, I left Bristol on the A4 heading through Avonmouth, which took me under the suspension bridge and along the river to the Severn Estuary.
Unfortunately the rain had set in again by the time I reached the M48 cycle path over the River Severn, so there was no view. But Winnie the Pooh would have been proud - it was a very blustery day - I got my head down and battled through the wind across the Bridge.
Eventually crawled to the other side, found some shelter, put my waterproofs on and that was enough to stop the rain for the day.
Cycle up the Wye valley, which is gorgeous, passed a ruined Abbey and up into to Coleford.
A fairly flat stage (with a couple of nasty hills, especially going up into Coleford). Passed from Devon into Somerset, Avon, Monmouthsire and into Gloucestershire.
Total miles now: 321.61
Total calories now: 12, 033
Number of End to Enders: +1
Sponsorship raised on route: +£5
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
T +3 Liskeard to Whitnage nr Tiverton
"I am a cyclist. I do not get off and walk" (Marco Pantani?) But that doesn't mean that I'm not tempted...often.
Devon was always going to be the hardest day of the first week, and it did not disappoint.
I got through it by clunking down into 27th gear and then grinding my way up the hills...or whacking up back into first and flying back down them.
I found some new ways to break the long-distance cyclist's boredom. First off: a puncture. Fix it using a self-adhesive patch. Watch it go back down in no time and try again (twice) before replacing the tube.
Then, bumping my way down towards Tiverton - high speed and a v poor road surface - losing my Garmin (it jumped off the bars, bounced on the road and landed in the hedge). Spent an anxious 20 minutes walking up and down the road trying to find it. Eventually, I did. Really improves your mood when something positive like that happens!
Tuesday's B&B and was nothing to look at from the outside, but very nice inside. (Four poster bed an all.) Ditto the pub, which was almost a mile away.
Total miles so far 224.8
Total calories so far 12, 033
Total puncture 1 (unless you count the 3 attempts at repairing the same puncture - if you do, then: 3)
Have to say that (so far) I'm feeling much better than I was at the same stage last year (touch wood et al).
Devon was always going to be the hardest day of the first week, and it did not disappoint.
I got through it by clunking down into 27th gear and then grinding my way up the hills...or whacking up back into first and flying back down them.
I found some new ways to break the long-distance cyclist's boredom. First off: a puncture. Fix it using a self-adhesive patch. Watch it go back down in no time and try again (twice) before replacing the tube.
Then, bumping my way down towards Tiverton - high speed and a v poor road surface - losing my Garmin (it jumped off the bars, bounced on the road and landed in the hedge). Spent an anxious 20 minutes walking up and down the road trying to find it. Eventually, I did. Really improves your mood when something positive like that happens!
Tuesday's B&B and was nothing to look at from the outside, but very nice inside. (Four poster bed an all.) Ditto the pub, which was almost a mile away.
Total miles so far 224.8
Total calories so far 12, 033
Total puncture 1 (unless you count the 3 attempts at repairing the same puncture - if you do, then: 3)
Have to say that (so far) I'm feeling much better than I was at the same stage last year (touch wood et al).
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
T +2 Penzance to Liskeard via the Lizard
It started to rain as I pulled out of Penzance. Stop...waterproofs on.
It turned sunny 200 yards down the road, and got really hot. Stop ... waterproofs off. It was going to be that sort of day.
Lizard Point was fantastic. Brilliant blue skies. Thousands of flowers in bloom, dozens of shades of pink, yellow and green. I had a coffee at the most southerly cafe and watched the birds catching insects, the boats on the horizon and the dog walkers on the coast path. Lovely.
Had lunch in Truro - my first 'Subway' experience. Took my time and read the paper. Watched the sky cloud over into a nasty looking dark grey.
Between Truro and St Austell the heavens opened. The full works: thunder, lighting, hail (which really hurts when you're cycling in it). It was still coming down when I got to St Austell. In fact, it was so heavy and there was so much standing water that my feet were splashing in it at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Found another Subway. Had a coffee and a (forbidden) oat biscuit, and froze while I watched the rain (eventually) pass over. If there'd been a wet T Shirt competition, I'm sure I would have won: I definitely had the wettest t shirt, the wettest shorts, the wettest shoes, the wettest socks...
Finally made it to Liskeard at 7pm. This is rapidly turning into a credit crunch tour: the hotel I stayed in last year was lovely. This year, the same hotel was quiet, getting a little run down andits in-house Thai restaurant was gone. Even the complimentary biscuits had gone AWOL.
A fairly poor pub meal in the evening (at the only pub that seemed to be open and doing food), and turned in...my clothes all 'drying' in bathroom.
Nos of miles so far: 139.5 Total calories so far 4,695
Total end to enders: 3.
It turned sunny 200 yards down the road, and got really hot. Stop ... waterproofs off. It was going to be that sort of day.
Lizard Point was fantastic. Brilliant blue skies. Thousands of flowers in bloom, dozens of shades of pink, yellow and green. I had a coffee at the most southerly cafe and watched the birds catching insects, the boats on the horizon and the dog walkers on the coast path. Lovely.
Had lunch in Truro - my first 'Subway' experience. Took my time and read the paper. Watched the sky cloud over into a nasty looking dark grey.
Between Truro and St Austell the heavens opened. The full works: thunder, lighting, hail (which really hurts when you're cycling in it). It was still coming down when I got to St Austell. In fact, it was so heavy and there was so much standing water that my feet were splashing in it at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Found another Subway. Had a coffee and a (forbidden) oat biscuit, and froze while I watched the rain (eventually) pass over. If there'd been a wet T Shirt competition, I'm sure I would have won: I definitely had the wettest t shirt, the wettest shorts, the wettest shoes, the wettest socks...
Finally made it to Liskeard at 7pm. This is rapidly turning into a credit crunch tour: the hotel I stayed in last year was lovely. This year, the same hotel was quiet, getting a little run down andits in-house Thai restaurant was gone. Even the complimentary biscuits had gone AWOL.
A fairly poor pub meal in the evening (at the only pub that seemed to be open and doing food), and turned in...my clothes all 'drying' in bathroom.
Nos of miles so far: 139.5 Total calories so far 4,695
Total end to enders: 3.
T +1 Home To Penzance
What a wonderful day (well...)
The roads were clear, the sun was shining. I got to Paddington in double quick time. The ticket machine worked (doesn't sound much; but it wouldn't work last year and I almost missed the train as a result). The train was quiet and it ran on time. The buffet was fully stocked, the staff friendly and polite...
When we pulled into Penzance, it was glorious A fit of enthusiasm: I'll ride to Land's End this evening - it's only 4.15, make the most of the weather and shave 20 miles off tomorrow's total.
Land's End was, well, Land's End. Hopelessly over-commercialised, but blue skies, lots of wild life and 3 other end-to-end cyclists to talk to (Lycra, gear ratios, how many days are you going to do it in - nothing competitive). Two were just starting. Planning to complete the ride in 13 days. One had just finished in 6. 'Photos taken (the official booth was closed, so the Land's End sign post had been taken down, but there's a millennium beacon with 'Land's End' emblazoned on it, so we made the best of it)
It was such a nice evening, I decided to get some extra miles in by going back to Penzance via St Just. St Just used to be a bit of a dump; but it was really nice. Some of the old 'antique' shops had been replaced by art galleries (the artists from St Ives moving out?) and the empty shops had been filled. The whole was so good that I was already planning next year's run (if that guy can do it in 6, so can I (remind me about this later).
A steady run down into Penzance to the hotel...
And guess what...
The hotel that I booked and payed for in February was shut, gone, empty, out of business. All around me are B&Bs and hotels, and every last one has 'no vacancies'.
Long story short: eventually found a B&B that was better than the hotel I'd booked and negotiated the price down from £60 to £31. If Barclaycard will refund the cost of the original hotel, I might even save some money.
Had a brilliant meal in a harbour front fish restaurant and turned in for the night.
Total miles so far: 50.53. Total calories: 2,606
Nos of End to Enders spotted :3 (Might run a book on this - how many end to enders will I see this year?)
The roads were clear, the sun was shining. I got to Paddington in double quick time. The ticket machine worked (doesn't sound much; but it wouldn't work last year and I almost missed the train as a result). The train was quiet and it ran on time. The buffet was fully stocked, the staff friendly and polite...
When we pulled into Penzance, it was glorious A fit of enthusiasm: I'll ride to Land's End this evening - it's only 4.15, make the most of the weather and shave 20 miles off tomorrow's total.
Land's End was, well, Land's End. Hopelessly over-commercialised, but blue skies, lots of wild life and 3 other end-to-end cyclists to talk to (Lycra, gear ratios, how many days are you going to do it in - nothing competitive). Two were just starting. Planning to complete the ride in 13 days. One had just finished in 6. 'Photos taken (the official booth was closed, so the Land's End sign post had been taken down, but there's a millennium beacon with 'Land's End' emblazoned on it, so we made the best of it)
It was such a nice evening, I decided to get some extra miles in by going back to Penzance via St Just. St Just used to be a bit of a dump; but it was really nice. Some of the old 'antique' shops had been replaced by art galleries (the artists from St Ives moving out?) and the empty shops had been filled. The whole was so good that I was already planning next year's run (if that guy can do it in 6, so can I (remind me about this later).
A steady run down into Penzance to the hotel...
And guess what...
The hotel that I booked and payed for in February was shut, gone, empty, out of business. All around me are B&Bs and hotels, and every last one has 'no vacancies'.
Long story short: eventually found a B&B that was better than the hotel I'd booked and negotiated the price down from £60 to £31. If Barclaycard will refund the cost of the original hotel, I might even save some money.
Had a brilliant meal in a harbour front fish restaurant and turned in for the night.
Total miles so far: 50.53. Total calories: 2,606
Nos of End to Enders spotted :3 (Might run a book on this - how many end to enders will I see this year?)
Saturday, June 13, 2009
T -1: bags packed and bike loaded
It weighs a ton. Do I really need all this stuff?
I've changed the tyres, lubed the chain and gears, changed the brake blocks. Sorted.
I feel a mix of excitement (looking forward to it) and trepidation (away from home for a fortnight, with long, long rides ahead of me). What was I thinking of?
I decide to take it one day at a time. And tomorrow will be fine - 30 miles to Paddington on a Sunday morning. It's little more than a ride to work, but the roads will be clear and the weather forecast is fine. The rest of the day will be spent reading the papers, drinking coffee and walking along the prom in Penzance. Perfect.
I've changed the tyres, lubed the chain and gears, changed the brake blocks. Sorted.
I feel a mix of excitement (looking forward to it) and trepidation (away from home for a fortnight, with long, long rides ahead of me). What was I thinking of?
I decide to take it one day at a time. And tomorrow will be fine - 30 miles to Paddington on a Sunday morning. It's little more than a ride to work, but the roads will be clear and the weather forecast is fine. The rest of the day will be spent reading the papers, drinking coffee and walking along the prom in Penzance. Perfect.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
T - 4: the plan - cycle 1,050 miles from Land's End to John O'Groats to raise at least £1 per mile for Mind
It all sounds pretty straight forward:
Sunday 14 June: Cycle the 30 miles to Paddington and take the train to Penzance. (Relax. Coffee, papers, look out of the window and dream about the long sunny days ahead...)
Monday 15 June: Cycle from Penzance to Land's End, get 'photo taken (evidence!) then cycle to Liskeard via Lizard Point and over Exmoor (105 miles on the day, total so far: 135)
Tuesday 16 June: Cycle from Liskeard to Tiverton (73 miles; total 208)
Wednesday 17 June: Tiverton to Coleford, via the Severn Bridge and South Wales (there's a Starbucks round here somewhere too - see: things do still work outside London) (90 miles; total 298)
Thursday 18 June: Coleford to Shrewsbury (my favourite B&B - manor house, dogs, landscaped garden, village pub with real ale and good food (ahhhh....). (73 miles; total 371)
Friday 19 June: Shrewsbury to Chorley (through a tongue tied Whixall, Whitchurch, Winsford, Warrington and Wigan) (78 miles; total 449)
Saturday 20 June: Chorley to Penrith (always lots of cyclists in Penrith - most of them are doing the Coast to Coast, still...)(83 miles; total 532)
Sunday 21 June: Penrith to Sanquhar (into Scotland. Probably raining by this point)(82 miles; total 614)
Monday 22 June: Sanquhar to Paisley (53 miles; total 667)
Tuesday 23 June: Paisley to Ballacullish (must remember the anti-midge cream)(85 miles; total 752)
Wednesday 24 June: Ballacullish to Inverness (85 miles; total 837)
Thursday 25 June: Inverness to Tongue (fantastic ride up a flat, single track 'A' road, with grass growing up the middle, to the north coast of Scotland, to stay in a hotel that Miss Marple would have been proud of (good beer and good food, stunning scenery...)(85 miles; total 922)
Friday 26 June: Tongue to John O'Groats then back to the B&B at Mey (85 miles; total 1,007)
Saturday 27 June: Mey to Thurso, to catch the train to Inverness (13 miles; total 1,020)
Sunday 28 June: take the train from Inverness to London and cycle home (30 miles; total 1,050).
Best laid plans. It should all be fine then.
To sponsor me: www.justgiving.com/chrisfinney
Sunday 14 June: Cycle the 30 miles to Paddington and take the train to Penzance. (Relax. Coffee, papers, look out of the window and dream about the long sunny days ahead...)
Monday 15 June: Cycle from Penzance to Land's End, get 'photo taken (evidence!) then cycle to Liskeard via Lizard Point and over Exmoor (105 miles on the day, total so far: 135)
Tuesday 16 June: Cycle from Liskeard to Tiverton (73 miles; total 208)
Wednesday 17 June: Tiverton to Coleford, via the Severn Bridge and South Wales (there's a Starbucks round here somewhere too - see: things do still work outside London) (90 miles; total 298)
Thursday 18 June: Coleford to Shrewsbury (my favourite B&B - manor house, dogs, landscaped garden, village pub with real ale and good food (ahhhh....). (73 miles; total 371)
Friday 19 June: Shrewsbury to Chorley (through a tongue tied Whixall, Whitchurch, Winsford, Warrington and Wigan) (78 miles; total 449)
Saturday 20 June: Chorley to Penrith (always lots of cyclists in Penrith - most of them are doing the Coast to Coast, still...)(83 miles; total 532)
Sunday 21 June: Penrith to Sanquhar (into Scotland. Probably raining by this point)(82 miles; total 614)
Monday 22 June: Sanquhar to Paisley (53 miles; total 667)
Tuesday 23 June: Paisley to Ballacullish (must remember the anti-midge cream)(85 miles; total 752)
Wednesday 24 June: Ballacullish to Inverness (85 miles; total 837)
Thursday 25 June: Inverness to Tongue (fantastic ride up a flat, single track 'A' road, with grass growing up the middle, to the north coast of Scotland, to stay in a hotel that Miss Marple would have been proud of (good beer and good food, stunning scenery...)(85 miles; total 922)
Friday 26 June: Tongue to John O'Groats then back to the B&B at Mey (85 miles; total 1,007)
Saturday 27 June: Mey to Thurso, to catch the train to Inverness (13 miles; total 1,020)
Sunday 28 June: take the train from Inverness to London and cycle home (30 miles; total 1,050).
Best laid plans. It should all be fine then.
To sponsor me: www.justgiving.com/chrisfinney
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