I got up early, had breakfast and headed back up to John O'Groats. I might never come here again (although, thinking about it, I'm sure I could do it in 7 days if I took the more direct route that most end to enders take (eg by missing out Lizard Point and heading up the east coast of Scotland instead of to Tongue ... )) so I wanted an official 'photo with the sign and the whole works.
Got to JoG; had the photo taken, had a coffee, did a little shopping (couldn't have done this without my wife and kid's support) and then headed back to Thurso to catch the train.
The wind was still blowing strongly from the east so it took me 35 minutes to do the 7 miles from Mey to JoG, but only 20 minutes to get back!
Took the train from Thurso to Inverness where I'm staying over. Three more end to enders on the train - 1 who'd camped and taken 14 days, 2 others who B&B'd and were heading home to Glasgow.
Total miles so far: 1,064.59.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Tongue to John O'Groats, then back to Mey
OMG! More than 70 miles on a hilly, single track road into 20mph head winds. I managed an average speed of 12.8 mph and felt I'd done really well.
The scenery along the north coast of Scotland is amazing. It's very hilly on the western side, but it gradually eases as you head east. The flowers that were missing yesterday made an appearance today - miles and miles of yellow flowering gauze, pink heather, yellow iris, enormous ox-eye daisies - the works. Then, as you got further east, field after field of sheep (+ lambs), horses (+ fowls) and cows (+ calves)
The skies were clear and there were fantastic views across the Atlantic to the Islands (Rabbit Island, Storma and (eventually) Orkney).
A pleasant mix-up with the Heart Rate Monitor meant that for the first time in my life I'd ridden for nearly two hours, honestly believing that I'd only just managed an hour when I stopped for my first break.
I was thoroughly exhausted by the time I got to John O'Groats, and (briefly) fed up. It's such a tiny place. I got there 'late' (just after 6) so everything was shut and deserted. The sign had been taken down; there was no food and no coffee and no-one to talk tocelebrate with. Add to that the fact that I was so tired that I couldn't even begin to contemplate getting back on the bike to ride the 7 miles back to the B&B in Mey and you can see where I'm coming from.
But hang around for a little while and other cyclists start to come through, the pain eases and you begin to cheer up: a heavily bearded man from Dundee arrives - he'd ridden from Land's End to York, then up the east coast of England and Scotland - a longer route than mine but done in the same time; two club racing cyclists who'd ridden in 6 days with a club mate offering domestique services (carrying the luggage, organising food/drink etc) from the 'team car') and a guy who was riding on his own, with his wife working domestique who claimed to have completed the ride in 4 days.
We swapped stories and took photo's for each other, then I headed for the nearest pub to get something to eat. The others waited for a bunch ride to finish - another group of cyclists raising money for Aids in Africa (Race against time), who were said to be completing the ride in a week.
At the pub, I met a man who'd ridden a route similar to mine in the same time, but all the fingers on his right hand were missing. There was a also a lady who'd ridden a similar route, taken slightly longer but who'd camped/carried a huge amount of camping equipment the whole way.
Finally, there was an elderly gentlemen who'd spent 61 days walking from Land's End. Humbling.
(No tractors this year, and no tractor groupies - perhaps I was just too late?)
I finished my meal with my first pudding in a fortnight (Clootie Dumpling) and then headed back to Mey (7 miles back towards Thurso) to the B&B.
Total miles so far: 1,037.87
Total calories: 45, 953
Number of end to enders: too many to count (or too tired and too lazy)
Watched another wonderful sunset at 11pm.
The scenery along the north coast of Scotland is amazing. It's very hilly on the western side, but it gradually eases as you head east. The flowers that were missing yesterday made an appearance today - miles and miles of yellow flowering gauze, pink heather, yellow iris, enormous ox-eye daisies - the works. Then, as you got further east, field after field of sheep (+ lambs), horses (+ fowls) and cows (+ calves)
The skies were clear and there were fantastic views across the Atlantic to the Islands (Rabbit Island, Storma and (eventually) Orkney).
A pleasant mix-up with the Heart Rate Monitor meant that for the first time in my life I'd ridden for nearly two hours, honestly believing that I'd only just managed an hour when I stopped for my first break.
I was thoroughly exhausted by the time I got to John O'Groats, and (briefly) fed up. It's such a tiny place. I got there 'late' (just after 6) so everything was shut and deserted. The sign had been taken down; there was no food and no coffee and no-one to talk tocelebrate with. Add to that the fact that I was so tired that I couldn't even begin to contemplate getting back on the bike to ride the 7 miles back to the B&B in Mey and you can see where I'm coming from.
But hang around for a little while and other cyclists start to come through, the pain eases and you begin to cheer up: a heavily bearded man from Dundee arrives - he'd ridden from Land's End to York, then up the east coast of England and Scotland - a longer route than mine but done in the same time; two club racing cyclists who'd ridden in 6 days with a club mate offering domestique services (carrying the luggage, organising food/drink etc) from the 'team car') and a guy who was riding on his own, with his wife working domestique who claimed to have completed the ride in 4 days.
We swapped stories and took photo's for each other, then I headed for the nearest pub to get something to eat. The others waited for a bunch ride to finish - another group of cyclists raising money for Aids in Africa (Race against time), who were said to be completing the ride in a week.
At the pub, I met a man who'd ridden a route similar to mine in the same time, but all the fingers on his right hand were missing. There was a also a lady who'd ridden a similar route, taken slightly longer but who'd camped/carried a huge amount of camping equipment the whole way.
Finally, there was an elderly gentlemen who'd spent 61 days walking from Land's End. Humbling.
(No tractors this year, and no tractor groupies - perhaps I was just too late?)
I finished my meal with my first pudding in a fortnight (Clootie Dumpling) and then headed back to Mey (7 miles back towards Thurso) to the B&B.
Total miles so far: 1,037.87
Total calories: 45, 953
Number of end to enders: too many to count (or too tired and too lazy)
Watched another wonderful sunset at 11pm.
Inverness to Tongue
A day of "three halves".
I spent the morning pottering around Inverness. A small, attractive city. I visited the Cathedral (there was a service on, so I didn't go in; but peering through the glass doors, I could see a small Cathedral made of red stone in a simple design with twin, square flat topped towers standing either side of a large ornate entrance. The Cathedral stands close to the river on the opposite side to the Castle). I pottered along Ness Walk and Ness Bank enjoying the sun and admiring the fast flowing, shallow river, then headed into town to post home as much of my luggage as I could reasonably manage (took a gamble and posted the waterproofs, spare gloves and cycling kit etc - let's hope it doesn't rain!).
After an early lunch, I headed for the road. The route took me through Alnes, Bonar Bridge, Craske Inn, Altnarra and on to Tongue.
When I did this ride last year I marvelled at the beauty of it all. There were mountains, endless runs of flowering gauze and heather, lochs, peat bog pools, and it was so quiet that at times all you could hear were the birds and the odd fish catching insects near the water's surface. The forests butting up against the road that were so thickly planted you couldn't see more than a few feet into them before the sunlight was completely lost.
This year, the same single track road (the A836) headed north, but the flowers had all gone over, a good deal of the forest had been grubbed-up leaving dead tree stumps and piles of logs and the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any birds.
What had previously been a glorious ride quickly turned into an instrument of torture as a I ground my way up the long, long hills fighting against the wind towards Tongue, arms, knees and elbows aching. I even had a new saddle sore that was coming on nicely. To be frank, it hurt; it was all I could do to get the ride over with and I was very glad when it was done.
But I have to say that it was worth it - Tongue was breathtaking. The hotel sits on a cliff side overlooking the Kyle of Tongue. Even at 9.30 when I finished my meal the sun was still high in the sky and there was time for a walk across the fields and down to the beach. The beach itself was rocky, and covered in shells, sea grass, rock pools and streams. The sunset was stunning and it brilliantly silhouetted the castle ruins sitting high up on the cliffs on the far side of the water.
It didn't get dark until after 11, and I'm sure it was light again by 3 (not sleeping too well - the light wakes me up early every morning).
Despite the many positive things I've said about the earlier B&B's, this hotel was by far the best of the trip. I would dearly love to stay here again (if only it wasn't so far).
Total miles so far: 964.82
Total calories so far: 42, 195
I spent the morning pottering around Inverness. A small, attractive city. I visited the Cathedral (there was a service on, so I didn't go in; but peering through the glass doors, I could see a small Cathedral made of red stone in a simple design with twin, square flat topped towers standing either side of a large ornate entrance. The Cathedral stands close to the river on the opposite side to the Castle). I pottered along Ness Walk and Ness Bank enjoying the sun and admiring the fast flowing, shallow river, then headed into town to post home as much of my luggage as I could reasonably manage (took a gamble and posted the waterproofs, spare gloves and cycling kit etc - let's hope it doesn't rain!).
After an early lunch, I headed for the road. The route took me through Alnes, Bonar Bridge, Craske Inn, Altnarra and on to Tongue.
When I did this ride last year I marvelled at the beauty of it all. There were mountains, endless runs of flowering gauze and heather, lochs, peat bog pools, and it was so quiet that at times all you could hear were the birds and the odd fish catching insects near the water's surface. The forests butting up against the road that were so thickly planted you couldn't see more than a few feet into them before the sunlight was completely lost.
This year, the same single track road (the A836) headed north, but the flowers had all gone over, a good deal of the forest had been grubbed-up leaving dead tree stumps and piles of logs and the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any birds.
What had previously been a glorious ride quickly turned into an instrument of torture as a I ground my way up the long, long hills fighting against the wind towards Tongue, arms, knees and elbows aching. I even had a new saddle sore that was coming on nicely. To be frank, it hurt; it was all I could do to get the ride over with and I was very glad when it was done.
But I have to say that it was worth it - Tongue was breathtaking. The hotel sits on a cliff side overlooking the Kyle of Tongue. Even at 9.30 when I finished my meal the sun was still high in the sky and there was time for a walk across the fields and down to the beach. The beach itself was rocky, and covered in shells, sea grass, rock pools and streams. The sunset was stunning and it brilliantly silhouetted the castle ruins sitting high up on the cliffs on the far side of the water.
It didn't get dark until after 11, and I'm sure it was light again by 3 (not sleeping too well - the light wakes me up early every morning).
Despite the many positive things I've said about the earlier B&B's, this hotel was by far the best of the trip. I would dearly love to stay here again (if only it wasn't so far).
Total miles so far: 964.82
Total calories so far: 42, 195
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Inchree to Inverness
On the A82 again. Nevermind.
Another glorious day - full sunshine and stunning views. The road out of Fort William takes you passed Ben Nevis, snow caps and all.
I stopped for lunch at the most amazing hotel: Glengarry Castle - I have to recommend this one. The service was great, the food excellent and the views stunning (from the library, where I ate, I had a clear view of the terraced garden, Loch Oich and the steep mountains opposite. The antique furniture was wonderful and the bathroom was brown marble and art deco. It has its own ruined castle in the grounds - what more could you want?
I spent the day cycling up the lochs Linnhe, Lochy, Oich and Ness. No monsters today (nor last year - must be frightened of cyclists). Passed through Rubha Ban (it's really there) and into Inverness. Stayed in a small hotel on Ness Bank with wonderful views of the river.
Fantastic.
And beginning to get demob happy - only 150 and 2 days to go!
Another glorious day - full sunshine and stunning views. The road out of Fort William takes you passed Ben Nevis, snow caps and all.
I stopped for lunch at the most amazing hotel: Glengarry Castle - I have to recommend this one. The service was great, the food excellent and the views stunning (from the library, where I ate, I had a clear view of the terraced garden, Loch Oich and the steep mountains opposite. The antique furniture was wonderful and the bathroom was brown marble and art deco. It has its own ruined castle in the grounds - what more could you want?
I spent the day cycling up the lochs Linnhe, Lochy, Oich and Ness. No monsters today (nor last year - must be frightened of cyclists). Passed through Rubha Ban (it's really there) and into Inverness. Stayed in a small hotel on Ness Bank with wonderful views of the river.
Fantastic.
And beginning to get demob happy - only 150 and 2 days to go!
An evening in Inchree
Inchree is a tony hamlet that sits on Loch Linnhe.
To get to it, I cycled through Glen Coe passed Loch Leven.
The only pub that offers food is a 'short walk away'. I decided to walk (because the guy at the B&B said it was less than a mile) and quickly regretted it - very hot, and the short walk turned into at least 2 miles. I also discovered that the pub was full when I got there, so they couldn't take any more food orders.
But all worked out well - the manager of the pub offered to drive me to the next village pub (another 2 miles away) and refused to take any cash in payment (even though I would have paid a taxi double rather than walk another step).
In the end, I had my evening meal in a Hotel near Loch Leven, where I enjoyed fish and chips and watched the sun settle over two lochs. (I had asked for a baked potato but the waitress insisted that people only eat baked potatoes at lunch time so it was impossible to cook one in the evening - even in a microwave).
Taxi back to the B&B.
People couldn't have been more friendly and more helpful.
To get to it, I cycled through Glen Coe passed Loch Leven.
The only pub that offers food is a 'short walk away'. I decided to walk (because the guy at the B&B said it was less than a mile) and quickly regretted it - very hot, and the short walk turned into at least 2 miles. I also discovered that the pub was full when I got there, so they couldn't take any more food orders.
But all worked out well - the manager of the pub offered to drive me to the next village pub (another 2 miles away) and refused to take any cash in payment (even though I would have paid a taxi double rather than walk another step).
In the end, I had my evening meal in a Hotel near Loch Leven, where I enjoyed fish and chips and watched the sun settle over two lochs. (I had asked for a baked potato but the waitress insisted that people only eat baked potatoes at lunch time so it was impossible to cook one in the evening - even in a microwave).
Taxi back to the B&B.
People couldn't have been more friendly and more helpful.
Paisley to Inchree
What a wonderful day. Clear blue skies, a gentle breeze and the A82 to bounce my way along for 90 miles (the A82 has to be the worst road I've ever been on - badly surfaced, badly potholed, badly maintained etc - but never mind that for now).
I left Paisley late morning, and headed over the Erskine Bridge to Balloch on the south shores of Loch Lomond. Had some lunch and bought some anti-midge spray. I've always been pretty cynical about these sprays before, but I got so badly bitten last time that I had to give it a go...and it worked a treat. No bites.
Today's route took me up the west side of Loch Lomond, which was bathed in sunshine and shimmering in the heat. A deer came out onto the side of the road, ran along side me for a few seconds and then headed back into the bushes. A heron flew close by.
I had a light lunch in Crianlarich and then headed up to Rannoch Moor and through Glen Coe. Whenever I've been here in the past, it's been so wet that it was impossible to enjoy the views, but today it was glorious. The (Grampian) mountains were stunning and the moor was very peaceful. The bird and insect life was stunning.
Took pictures of the white crofters cottages nestling at the base of the mountains, sat at the moor's edge and enjoyed the view. Very relaxing.
The ride was very hilly, but the climbs were long and steady so although it was a relatively slow day, it was also relatively easy.
The road surface was giving me truly sore hands and shoulders, so I tried wearing two pairs of gloves, letting my saddle down slightly and lowering the pressure in my tyres. Seemed to help a bit.
Miles so far: 801.53
Calories so far: 35,860
Sense of satisfaction: huge.
I left Paisley late morning, and headed over the Erskine Bridge to Balloch on the south shores of Loch Lomond. Had some lunch and bought some anti-midge spray. I've always been pretty cynical about these sprays before, but I got so badly bitten last time that I had to give it a go...and it worked a treat. No bites.
Today's route took me up the west side of Loch Lomond, which was bathed in sunshine and shimmering in the heat. A deer came out onto the side of the road, ran along side me for a few seconds and then headed back into the bushes. A heron flew close by.
I had a light lunch in Crianlarich and then headed up to Rannoch Moor and through Glen Coe. Whenever I've been here in the past, it's been so wet that it was impossible to enjoy the views, but today it was glorious. The (Grampian) mountains were stunning and the moor was very peaceful. The bird and insect life was stunning.
Took pictures of the white crofters cottages nestling at the base of the mountains, sat at the moor's edge and enjoyed the view. Very relaxing.
The ride was very hilly, but the climbs were long and steady so although it was a relatively slow day, it was also relatively easy.
The road surface was giving me truly sore hands and shoulders, so I tried wearing two pairs of gloves, letting my saddle down slightly and lowering the pressure in my tyres. Seemed to help a bit.
Miles so far: 801.53
Calories so far: 35,860
Sense of satisfaction: huge.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Some thank yous
I've been reading, and am very grateful for, the very encouraging comments friends have been posting on the blog. Please keep them coming. I'm sorry that I haven't worked out how to reply directly.
I'm also very grateful for all the sponsorship/donations made. I've just checked the sponsorship page and between us we've raised well over £1,200 - more than last year and well past my target.
Thank you.
I'm also very grateful for all the sponsorship/donations made. I've just checked the sponsorship page and between us we've raised well over £1,200 - more than last year and well past my target.
Thank you.
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